Questions Around Extracting Honey

Harvesting summer honey may sometimes raise more questions for a beekeeper than you might think.  When? How? How much? What if…? Storage solutions? Isn’t there an easier way? Etc.  You could also be thinking about your last extraction experiences.  Undoubtedly there will be some things you’ll want to do again and some you will definitely want to avoid at all costs.  And finally, you’ll be taking stock of your equipment to see what you have, what you don’t, and what you might have put away dirty and need to put a little elbow grease into before you can even begin the process.  All of these questions and decisions come to mind as you start planning the date on which you will pull frames.

In Southwest Ohio June/July is our normal time to pull spring honey or at least to begin the process which could result in multiple pulls based on the volume you can process at one time or even the state of the frames on that day…you might need to give the ladies just a little more time to work some of the frames.  All said and done, honey harvest is a great time where you get to appreciate all the work your colonies have done and I hope the information below helps you navigate this process a little easier this year.

Should I pull that frame?

Layens frames are deeper than other frame styles and so you might often come across frames that still have a portion of uncapped nectar at the bottom.  You wonder if you should pull that frame.  I would suggest that it’s really a question of proportion and what the moisture in that uncapped nectar might do to the rest of the honey.

The moisture content of honey is a critical factor in determining its quality and marketability. In the United States, there are specific standards that honey must meet to be classified appropriately. Grade A or B honey must have a moisture content below 18.6% to qualify for these grades and the ideal range for most beekeepers would be between 15.5% and 18.5%.  Maintaining the correct moisture level is essential for several reasons:

• Quality: Honey with high moisture content can ferment, leading to spoilage and undesirable flavors.
• Shelf Life: Proper moisture levels contribute to honey’s long shelf life, as honey is naturally preservative due to its low water activity.

If honey exceeds the moisture threshold it may ferment, resulting in a sour taste and bubbly texture and fermentation can render the honey unfit for consumption, impacting both consumers and beekeepers.

So, to answer the question above, you could pull frames that have some uncapped honey but it’s a question of how much.  I would also suggest using a refractometer to check the moisture level of the uncapped nectar which is important so you have some idea of what moisture you will be introducing into the capped honey.  Best case you want the frame to be fully capped but, in this situation, you will likely make a judgement call based on past experience.  Less uncapped will always be better than more but some could be just fine. I personally use a rule of thumb that if there is more than a 1/3 of the frame uncapped I leave it for a future date…that includes looking at both sides.

To recap…😊

Capped Honey

• Moisture Content: Approximately 15-18% (must be below18.6% to be sold in the USA)
• Ripeness: Stable for long-term storage
• Storage: Can be stored indefinitely without risk of fermentation
• Importance: Capped honey indicates that the bees have completed the evaporation process, reducing moisture to a safe level. Low moisture may lead to early crystallization.

Uncapped Honey

• Moisture Content: Often higher than >18%
• Ripeness: Still unripe and not fully processed
• Storage: Prone to fermentation if not handled properly (keep in a cool place)
• Risks: Uncapped honey can ferment due to its high moisture content, which allows natural yeasts to thrive. If harvested, it requires careful management to reduce moisture and prevent spoilage.

Should I care about pests?

The answer is…yes, yes, and yes.  Cleanliness and storage considerations are very important to your customers and state.  If you plan to sell honey you should be well versed on your local and state regulations for all stages of the extraction, bottling, storage, and sale of honey and honey products.  Much of this information can be found online and you may want to contact your state office just to discuss any lingering questions.  Labelling is also important.  So, unless you are only giving it away to friends and family you will have to spend some time understanding what is expected.  But here you are at your colony pulling frames and you’re wondering what you should do about pests.  What are we talking about? Your biggest problems could eventually come from the eggs and larvae of wax moths and small hive beetles.  Ants are another bothersome pest for another reason we will get to.

It’s unlikely you will take your frames directly from the hive and extract them immediately, so storage is likely the first thing to consider.  This can start right after you lift the frame from the hive.

Storage:

Do you have a container to hold your frames as you work the hive(s)?  Having something next to you will help in a couple ways.  One, something with a lid can protect your frames from sagging and collapsing (especially if they are wired) while you are working and they are exposed to the sun and summer heat.  You will likely want all the bees off the frame. You can try to do this at the hive with a brush but if you have a container with a lid it will help keep the bees from just flying back to the frame…this can become very frustrating when its hot and you’ve got a lot more frames to pull. Last thing to mention at this point is weight.  Yes, Layens frames full of honey can weigh close to 10 pounds each.  If you fill up a large container you may end up not being able to carry it.  We often use one of our 5 frame nuc boxes or pull a cart with a larger plastic storage tub.  Don’t forget you still have to lift the storage tub off the cart…definitely a two-person task.

Wax moths/SHB:

Here is where the question of time and pests comes in.  If you will be storing your frames for a week or two before extracting, you could have wax moth and small hive beetle larvae emerging and enjoying a week or two alone in your dark storage tub munching away at you precious honey comb.  Don’t take a chance.  I recommend putting all honey frames into a freeze for 24 hours to kill all uninvited pests.  Regarding freezers, if you leave them in for too long you could actually start drying out your comb and honey…hey, its what freezers do…they extract water from the environment.  24 hours is just fine and then slide them back into your storage container ready for that future extraction.

Ants:

Now we come to the pesky ants I mentioned earlier.  Yes, if you have a house or a storage shed where you are keeping your honey frames you will also have ants that would love to make a visit and let all the other ants know exactly where to grab a meal. I recommend taking something as simple as wide painters tape and taping your lid to the container while also looking for those handle or air/drainage holes manufactures add to the underside of handles just out of site.  These holes are great front doors for ants and if left open you will find a bunch of scurrying ants when you lift the lid.

Mice:

Mice are another pest to consider, and this may not be an issue of them getting into your tubs or eating your honey comb but more of a cleanliness issue.  Out buildings, cold garages or even unvisited attics can be a great breeding area for mice and where there are mice there are mice feces, bacteria and possible viruses.  Everything you don’t want in your honey or even around the clean area you just prepared for extraction. Take stock of your honey extraction area and take action if you need to.  We may not all have the money to set up a fancy honey building, but we can try to keep our area as clean as possible.

Do I need all these tools?

That’s a tough question to answer.  As for myself, woodworker, I’m not sure I have found a tool I don’t like, and I know beekeepers can be like that too so it’s really “to each his own.”  I might suggest you look over these questions below and let them guide you.  I would also say that something more expensive or fancier isn’t likely going to pay off as much as you think… “less is more” may be a better place to start until you get some experience under your belt.  Suppliers will always be there, and they will always love to sell you one more thing.  Beekeeping’s a hobby…it costs enough already.

Your answer to these questions might provide directions:

• Do you need a tool to uncap with? Remember a fork is a free way to start and yes, uncapping knives can get crazy expensive.
• How are you going to extract honey from your frames…crush or spin? Crushing is cheap in your first year and it will take a few years to pay off the cost of an extractor.  Check with your local club before going down that road and if you do borrow the clubs extractor try and return it the way you get it.  There are others just like you who may need to use a functional extractor too.
• Will you have wax cappings you need to filter out of your honey? Cheese cloth or other straining materials are very helpful down inside a 5-gallon bucket whether you crush or spin. Note here, I’m sorry to say I was one of those people who purchased the fancy double strainers from the bee supplier store.  Bad decision.  They clog up very easily just when you are dealing with liquid honey filling up and running over the sides.  Definite lessons learned moment.
• You need a way to store and settle the honey (1-2wks). Yes, you will not extract right into your bottles.  Honey often captures air bubbles in it while it’s being worked.  These need time to rise to the top and be removed.  If you are using a 5-gallon bucket after 1-2 weeks grab some plastic sandwich wrap and lay a piece flat on top of the honey pressing lightly into the edges to connect with all the bubbles on the top.  Now simply raise the wrap up and it will also pull all the bubble with it…and a little honey so make sure you’ve prepared where and how you are going to get this drippy wrap into a garbage bag and not have honey all over the floor…am I giving away all my accidents? 😊
• You need a way to easily dispense the honey into containers. Yes, again there are fancy expensive dispensing machines, but I’ve found that with a little patience you can do a great job with your 5-gallon bucket on a count and dispensing from a honey gate you’ve installed in the bucket.  Remember that many beekeeper tools can be made a lot easier and less expensive than buying.  Honey buckets are a very doable project that can save you a lot making a few for yourself.
• Are you going to save and use your wax cappings? If so, how do you plan to store them for now and how are you planning to melt them later?  This is a big topic and there are lots of methods out there.  For me, I’ve found a solar melter to really work well and by the way you can make it yourself…win, win.
• You need to be able to check your honey water %. Okay, here is something you definitely need to buy and you can find them lots of places so check your prices…a Refractometer.  Not hard at all to use and really accurate.  Just make sure you buy one intended to measure water %.  Some are used for brewing and may not come with the water % measurement scale.  Make sure the description says it does.
• You may need a way to dry the honey. So sometimes honey may have just a little too much moisture.  One thing that has worked for me is to put the bucket in a room with a dehumidifier for a day to try and pull more moisture out.  I’m sure there are other beekeepers out there with their methods so check in with your club or mentor.

There’s no rushing extraction.

If you are in a rush, then you should likely pick another beekeeping task that day.  Rushing can’t make honey flow faster, improve your mood, or help you keep things from becoming a mess…take it from experience.  Here are some things to keep in mind and remember, this is a hobby and should be fun.

• Honey flows based on temps. The warmer your day and space the easier the honey will flow.  (also don’t forget to give those frozen frames from the freeze a few days to warm up)
• Honey can get everywhere and tracked everywhere. There is not a truer statement. Always check your shoes, area around your uncapping and extraction space for drips and globs of honey…somehow it can fly everywhere, your hands…doorknobs love honey, and anywhere you sit any tool.  By the way, don’t do this anywhere, you can’t access water.  A nice bowl of water and some paper towels really help.  While I’m mentioned cleaning up, you may want to hose some of your equipment down after.  Just remember the bees will be out there waiting for you…spray things off in the evening or at least in the shade.
• Frames do blowout. If you are using a spinning extractor the speed of the extractor could take a beautiful frame of comb and turn it into a mess.  Slow while the comb is heavy with honey is always best.  Also, consider leaving the most light-colored combs of honey for the bees.  The darker ones spin much easier.  Spin slow … turn … spin … turn and repeat.
• Rising honey levels getting into ball bearings and can putrefy the whole batch. What the honey level in any extractor. There are normally exposed internal workings and you definitely don’t want grease in your honey.  I always open the gate of the extractor and let the honey pour into a 5-gallon bucket from the beginning…no worries.
• Honey buckets get heavy. Remember what I said about storage tubs.  Buckets are the same.  They really get heavy.  My solution is to always have a few extra buckets and once it gets halfway, I swap out for a new one…easy peasy.

What do I do with these wet frames?

Remember that what I will share here is partly because I am a natural beekeeper and don’t ever feed my bees.  I also have seen how open feeding can really create a feeding frenzy which triggers foragers aggression stimulating guard bees’ aggression when they return all worked up.  Okay, because of this I don’t put frame out in the open for the bees to clean.  Actually, I don’t see a reason for that if you can keep the wet frames in a tight storage container until you can reintroduce them back into your hives.

The way I do this in a Layens hive is to introduce a frame or two out by the follower board for a week.  When I come back, I take these clean and repaired frames of comb and move them next to the brood area so the queen can jump over and start laying.  This way I quickly expand the brood area, develop a larger colony size, and hopefully more foragers who will help me pull more honey later.

Also remember that putting them out to be cleaned doesn’t help repair the damaged comb.  I get two birds with one step by putting them back in the colony speeding up the process.

I hope this has been helpful and maybe got you thinking about some things before they happen to you.  Remember beekeeping is supposed to be fun…enjoy! and share you honey with others.